The main neutral line is routed through the magnetically coupled current sensor, which measures the current flowing through the neutral line. When connected to 240 VAC Service, the Energy Management features of the unit are disabled and the unit switches all controlled loads “ON”. “Energy Management is only enabled if 240 VAC Service is not available. I’m hoping Laursen or McElroy can straighten me out here, but this is my understanding from the Intellitec manual: The only way to get both AC to run is to completely bypass the main service panel that provides power to one AC. But if you are using more power there may be a chance you overload the 30 amp and the breaker may trip. If for some reason I am using more power and say I microwave something, the AC may shut off.Įven if you bypass the EMS with the one AC unit it will run all the the time and the other may or may not run depending on total load. If I leave both AC's they both may run depending on total load but usually one will run all the time. I can easily control the Water heater by turning it off, same with the Washer and dryer. On my coach the loads that are controlled by the EMS are Front & Rear AC, Water Heater, and Washer/dryer. So even if you bypass one AC unit it may move to the next one to shed load to get below 30 AM. If I'm not mistaken the EMS senses total load being used and when you exceed the 30 Amps it will start shedding loads until it drops below the 30 amp level. The one problem with bypassing the EMS on a circuit that you intend to use, an AC unit, there still may be a problem with shedding. This is not a typo - 18 total plugs on that circuit. And then on to 17 other plugs throughout the RV. One for example is the inverter 20A AC plug output circuit which first goes to a GFCI. Some of Monacos wiring both AC and DC definitely show cost cutting measures. The front plug is under the CB panel so I could adapt a A/C circuit to use it. The basic use of this circuit is for 2 ceramic heaters that gets it's power from the block heater circuit or an external extension cord. I added a circuit that can use this plug or and extension cord with 2 interior plugs in the closet and the front. My rig has a 20A plug in the engine room to plug in thee engine block heater (yeah my cheap Monaco does not have a dash switch to activate the block heater). Pretty cheap solution that you can use anytime you are at a site with only 30 amp provided they have a standard 20 amp plug available also. The EMS doesn't even know the AC unit is running. By doing this I can run an extension cord in through the window and plug in the AC unit completely bypassing the coaches electrical panel. On the bedroom AC unit he rewired the circuit and added a standard outlet to supply power to the AC unit and put a plug on the AC unit feed wire. The previous owner of my coach did something a little different. My shedding order is Hot Water Heater - Rear AC - Washer/Dryer - Front AC. Plus not sure what your shedding order is compared to mine however the AC's are not the first ones to go. I wouldn't worry about bypassing the EMS board, just let it do it's work. The only way to bypass that function is to bypass each control relay.īesides, if in fact you plan to use TWO 30 amp supplies, that is a total of 7200 watts of power, 3600 on each leg which is a lot more than the 3600 watts you would be getting from a 30 amp pedestal but less than the 12000 watts of power supplied by a 50 amp pedestal. Once you start consuming more than 3600 watts of power the relays will begin to OPEN shutting down each device in the selected sequence. When using only a 30 amp supply pedestal, that's when the EMS board comes into play as the 30/20 amp light will be lit up along with all of the relay lights. If you listen carefully you will hear each of the relays clicking in and the lights on the display will start to light up when this happens. The relays on the EMS control board are NC (aka normally closed) when 50 amp power is first applied to the coach with either 50 amp shore or generator power. The CG is on the Olympic Peninsula so it's not a given that it will be a warm stay. I understand the potential safety issues associated with using that adapter but may want to run 2 A/Cs since this is for a summer day. I want a plan in place to bypass the EMS if necessary. However they did not know if it was 2x 120V 30A or 120/240V 30A. The pedestal has 2x 30A plugs and they suggested using the 30/30/50 Y adapter. OK I have a reservation at a CG without 50A. Would removing the sensor from the neutral work since EMS would detect 0A and activate the relays? Just wondering as I would not do that and instead and bypass the relays. In my case the load wire length is adequate to move it to the panel CB. For clarity I think you're saying the EMS relays are normally open and closed when AC power is initially available.
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